Peter Lester
7 posts
Joined: 02/02/2008 17:53:51
Location: Orpington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Keeping my dizzy dry.
Hi all, my '92 British Open has of late suffered with a wet distributor in bad weather. I hate the thick plastic shield supplied by Rover. Awkward bloody thing. I made a perspex panel up which I affixed to the inside of the grill with screw's which work's up to a point but I was wondering if there's perhap's a cover similar to the one that fit's over the coil to fit over the dizzy?
Posted: Apr 07, 2013 04:36 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
1979 mini 1000 starting
Hi, I've had these engine go to 130k miles on the clock and still start without issue even when you can crank the engine over using the fan blades. I can see where you're going with the low compression not sucking the fuel in but that is usually down to worn carb spindles and air leaks on the manifold. If the fuel pump fails it will leak fuel out of the vent hole underneath.
I think you need to look at the electrics. Check the timing to make sure it is spot on. Gap the spark plugs and make sure the little aluminium screw on cap is tight (finger tight then further 30 degrees with pliers). clean the spade terminals on the low tension wiring (white/black trace to distirbutor) and also the coil wiring. Now strip,clean and refit the terminals on the starter solenoid and check that the mounting screws earth cleanly as well. strip clean and refit the earth straps to the engine and battery where they join the bodywork and block. Use a little vaseline after reassembly to protect them from rusting again. Take each plug lead off and adjust the insert so that it is a tight fit in/on the distributor cap and plug. Do the same to the coil lead. With the distributor cap off give it a spary with WD40 and wipe it out to make sure any moisture is driven out (let it air for 10 minutes before refitting or you'll blow it off when restarting) check the distributor baseplate earth strap from the condensor to the dizzy body - undo and clean to be sure. When refitting the distributor cap place a light smear of grease around the base so that when it fits to the dizzy body it seals against damp.
Give that a try and let us know if it improves things.
Also, have you got the weather shield in place for the electrics? An 1979 99H fitted Mini should have a small 20cm square 'dish' screwed to the inside of the slam panel in front of the dizzy cap. You could upgrade to the later larger shield type.
Posted: Jan 22, 2014 09:31 AM
Eric
222 posts
Joined: 21/06/2007 10:12:29
Location: Cranbrook United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Starting in the cold and damp
Thanks for the reply. It is 92-93 so it has electronic ignition, so that is a good start. I replaced the battery, plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor arm last year and I always use one of those weather shields.
It really is just the starting from cold. This morning it was a bit colder and damper, and it was the slowest turnover in the world - however, it eventually made it and was happy from then. My fear is that it is going to get colder before it gets warmer! I wonder if the battery is ok (and therefore the alternator is OK) but that maybe I have a high resistance between the battery and the starter motor? It is such a long run, which must lose amps.
I chatted to my local mini man and he suggested that I try starting it out of gear without my foot on the clutch. I'll give anything a go
Posted: Nov 12, 2008 09:50 AM
heretic
I had similar trouble last year with the rain. I'm now convinced about avoiding WD40. I've replaced the leads, distributor cap, plugs, rotor arm and I have the plastic shield in place. It starts.
My mini has to be outside too. My experience is that they really don't like not being garaged - and they particularly don't like the cold. If it is cold, try any way you can to get it in the garage.
I used to think my battery or starter were not up to it. However, I have come to a different conclusion - and everyone is going to tell me I'm wrong or mad. Minis use very thick oil. When it gets cold, the oil goes even thicker. I think this is the reason that the starter has a real problem starting on cold days - the oil is just too thick for the starter to turn the engine. So, this winter, last time I checked the oil, I topped it up with a bit (probably only 0.5L) of 10:40, which is a bit thinner. I don't know if it has made a difference - but although it has been very cold, and the car occasionally sounds a bit sluggish first thing, it has started every time since I have done this. Even when the temperature went down to -8C. Of course people are going to say I'll damage the engine. Maybe I will. But the car starts and I can get to and from work - I can use it as a car.
Posted: Jan 18, 2010 05:37 PM
Hey to everyone..im having problems with my new austin mini 1985
I know it is close to heresy, but I'd try chucking in some Radweld, Bars leaks (or similar product) first and then driving round for a bit. That should seal the leak.
Then after a week of driving round, I'd drain the water system of all the brown gunky water (when I did it, I took the fan switch out of the bottom, front of the radiator and it all just comes out - have a sink bowl underneath to catch it, and clean the bowl out after, before the missis spots it!). Keep flushing through, until the water is clean, and then put the plug/switch back in, and fill up, with nice clean water and antifreeze.
The heresy is that it might just block more than just the leak - it might block the whole matrix, so the heater won't work. But it is knackered as it is, so I don't think you have much to lose.
PS Here is an example of the weather shield - http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34217. You might find you already have one (just behind the grille, coming up to meet the engine). If not, for that price, I'd be tempted to rig something up behind the grille, to protect the distributor/coil. It'd probably be cheaper and make acces to the engine easier too.
Posted: Jan 21, 2008 11:30 AM
I wondered if I'm alone in finding the mini already seems slightly less enthusiastic regarding starting first thing in the morning, now it seems to be getting colder and damper? Anyone got any good ideas about how to avoid non-starting?
We had a long chat about it last year (https://www.minispares.com/Sec/Auth/Forum.aspx?fty=fpo&tid=&topic=&thread=&thid=19426), as the rain stopped us all in our tracks. I have the rain shield already and last year I replaced the battery, and overhauled the electrics - replacing the plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. I'm avoiding the WD40 as many were against it and in truth, it didn't seem to help.
Unfortunately, the car can't go in the garage - that is already full, with the wife's mini in there.
In part, I'm wondering if it is just that the cold makes the oil a bit thicker, so it is a bit more sluggish to start - maybe I'm just worrying unnecessarily? But I also wonder if I'm missing something like the alternator, starter, coil etc. Any good ideas to test, check, overhaul or replace before the really cold wet weather starts are gratefully received (particularly if they are quick, easy and cheap! )
Posted: Oct 24, 2008 01:27 PM
indymini
6 posts
Joined: 07/06/2012 21:43:43
Location: Morgantown United States
car stalling/quitting
I have a an 89 998 Mini which recently started running rough and quit on me. The periodic roughness started months ago and now finally quit. Along with the rough engine, the tac started jumping up and down erratically. I left it parked and came back in the morning to check it out and it started right up. With this behavior I don't fell confidant to drive it until I figure out what it is. It has a 123 distributor installed several yrs ago so I don't think it's the dizzy. My friend helped me install a new fuel pump below the fuel tank on the sub frame and he was wondering if there should be a heat shield between the pump and tail pipe. So, what i"m asking is....do you think it's fuel or distributor related.
o
Posted: Aug 29, 2023 08:26 PM
ignition problems...(damn rain)
I've got one of those plastic shields in both my '93 minis. I wouldn't drive without one because of the design fault that put the distributor just on the other side of the grille. However, over the last few days I've had both fail with total loss of power due to rain/standing water. The day before yesterday, the baterry just died and I was towed home
They are my wife's cars - she loves them - but even she is starting to say that the reliability is so bad that it would be sensible to sell them and get a more reliable, newer car (heresy!)
I wondered if anyone else had any good ways of fixing this?
I've heard of taking a Marigold rubber glove and fixing it over the distributor, with a finger for each lead - and then sealing the finger and hand holes somehow.
In the 1980s, I had an old Cavalier, which had a plastic hood thing that went over the top of the distributor and leads. That was a rubbish starter too, but the hood thing seemed to help (there is always the danger that these things hold the damp in, once it gets in there). Sort of like this, but for the leads coming out the top, not the side - http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32920
The bumper cans of WD40 are useful, but you can only put so much on!
So any other good tips that people have?
Posted: Jan 10, 2008 01:24 PM
T. Wippel
32 posts
Joined: 12/01/2008 17:19:07
Location: Dover United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi and welcome to this forum.You will get lots of help with problems on here.So it was the right thing to do joining our club.
Right 1st:
It's a well know problem.Water in the distributor.Get it cleaned up and dry.Check contact and points,and condensator.If needed replace them.To prevent water getting to your distributor you need to get a weather shield.There are quit a few online shops selling the original one on ebay.
2nd:
On ebay you also find a soundboard which fits under the rear seats.The board allows you to installe 6x9 inch speakers.Other options are mounts for the parcel shelf or door cards.
3rd:
I'm not sure about this one.May someone else on this forum can help with this matter.
Posted: Jan 20, 2008 04:10 PM
minicabrio
12 posts
Joined: 18/11/2009 17:37:53
Location: Torup Sweden
The engine loses power on the highway.
Hi,
Did you reconnect the vacuum advance and have you had the distributor bob weights recalibrated to match the opening profile of the new camshaft?
Which way does the fuel pipe route to the carburetor? If it's too close to the exhaust you might be getting a partial vapour lock in the line as the exhaust heats up the adjacent pipework.
Yes i reconnect the vacuum advance.
The distributor is recalibrated to match the opening profile of the new camshaft.
I have the same idea about that the fuel line is to close to the exhaust heats.
There is any exhaust shield to buy for an HS4 Carb ?
I think the engine loses power because it get not enough fuel.
Posted: Jul 18, 2014 08:08 PM